2019: South Africa –The Cape Peninsula, Part 4

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Friday, Oct 18: Good Hope

Cape Point and the Cape of Good Hope. When most people I talked to about being on the Cape Peninsula thought of was “southernmost point of Africa” and “Vasco de Gama was the first to go by it.” Both of those thoughts are wrong.

The Cape of Good Hope and the end of the Cape Peninsula.

Cape Agulhas is the southernmost point of Africa. The Cape of Good Hope is the point where European explorers started going more east than south when sailing down Africa’s coast. Portuguese explorer Bartolomeu Dias is given the distinction of being the first semi-modern European to go around the Cape. He named it Cabo das Tormentas, the Cape of Storms. King John II of Portugal renamed the cape “Cape of Good Hope” as part of a marketing scheme. If you were going to go around the southern tip of Africa on the way to India, would you rather go around the Cape of Storms or the Cape of Good Hope?

Anyway, we got up fairly early so we could begin our trek south from Claremont to the south end of the Cape Peninsula. We drove down the M3, caught the M4 and went through towns like St. James, Kalk Bay, and Fish Hoek.

Traffic…….
Beautiful homes on the hill as we go down the Cape.
The light in Kalk Bay.
Enlightenment pizza?

We stopped in Simon’s Town and wandered through some of the stores along the main road. Victorian, I guess, buildings with names like London House, Sartorial House, and Central Hotel, and businesses like the Tasty Table, Pearl Alley, Matchmaker, Nostalgie, and Simonstad Drankwinkel. Simon’s Town is also the location of one of South Africa’s Naval Bases and Boulder Bay, where a colony of African penguins reside.

Here is a slideshow. Click the arrows to view the images.

We left Simon’s Town and continued south on the M4 until we passed Bluegums Restplatz (a long way since the last reststop, I guess) and then turned right at Smitswinkel Valley. We found ourselves at the end of M4 and at the Cape of Good Hope Table Mountain National Park Entrance. We paid a nominal fee to enter and then continued driving south until we reached the parking lot of the Flying Dutchman funicular.

After a long drive, we get to wait in line. But how many people can say they’ve been here?
$21 to get in, per person. More expensive than US national parks.
Very old-looking landscape.
Tour buses of people were arriving. Many looked up at the old lighthouse and said they weren’t walking up there.

We were going to ride up to the top of a hill that has the old Cape Point lighthouse on top. The crowd of people was, well, crowded. A couple of tour buses had disgorged, and people were everywhere.

That is a long way to walk up. We don’t have as much time as we would like. Let’s ride!

We rode to the top of the funicular and looked around and took in the view of the Cape of Good Hope west of us by a few thousand feet.

Here is a slideshow. Click the arrows to view the images.

We could have walked down a trail about 2500 feet to a lookout where you can get a peek at the new Cape Point light, but we didn’t.

The trail to the end of Cape Point. Remember that sign at the entrance gate that said the park closed at 6:56? We couldn’t make the walk and get out on time.
The light at the end of the point. The one most people go to was replaced because it was too high. Clouds used to block the light from it, so the new one was put into place much lower.

We rode the funicular back down. We could have walked, but how often do you get to ride a funicular?

The view coming down.

And then we had an early dinner at the Two Oceans restaurant. D’Arcy ordered calamari. I usually do not like calamari because I find it too rubbery for my tastes. I tried some of hers. It was really good. Our waiter informed us that some of the best calamari comes from around there. Just then we saw whale spouts in the water. The waiter commented that there haven’t been too many whales yet this season. We were lucky again. But these were not southern right whales. They were humpbacks. After watching them for a bit, we decided we had to head back north.

Here is a slideshow. Click the arrows to view the images.

We passed by the two crosses used as markers for ships at sea. The crosses are the Dias Cross and the de Gama cross, to honor the two explorers, and then stopped briefly at the closed tourist information center. D’Arcy later painted a picture of one of the buildings there.

Here is a slideshow. Click the arrows to view the images.

After exiting the park, we turned left and went up the west side of the peninsula toward Kommetjie. I wanted to see the Slangkop Lighthouse. 

The sun starting to go down on the Cape of Good Hope.
Clouds forming on top of the flat hills.
The Slangkop lighthouse.

We then crossed the peninsula to Fish Hoek. As we crossed the middle of the peninsula, a blanket cloud started rolling over the top of the hill. Fun to watch as it did.

We wound up getting home after dark, but it was a great day out. Oh, what the heck? Why not see the cloud slowly try and come over the hill?

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The Great Escarpment goes from the northeast of South Africa and swings in a wide semicircle down to the south and then back to the northwest corner of the country.  It separates the high central plateau of South Africa from the coastal areas.

Wikipedia has a great image of this.

The Highveld is basically between 5,000 and 6,800 feet in elevation and is part of the central plateau in South Africa. The Lowveld is lower than about 500 meters (1,650 feet). It is basically to the east and northeast of the central plateau. And yes, if you are wondering, there is a middleveld. It is more often referred to as the Bushveld.

The Highveld is basically between 5,000 and 6,800 feet in elevation and is part of the central plateau in South Africa. The Lowveld is lower than about 500 meters (1,650 feet). It is basically to the east and northeast of the central plateau. And yes, if you are wondering, there is a middleveld. It is more often referred to as the Bushveld.

While the highveld is more like a prairie of grasses and the lowveld is grassland with scrubby brush and occasional trees, the bushveld is, amazingly, kind of between them. The bushveld is grassy lands with lots of patches of tall bushes and trees.

At least that is how I would describe them.

Daylin Paul is a fantastic photographer. A collection of his images is called Broken Land. From the October 6, 2019, Sunday Times:
“…the collection begins with aerial photographs of the seemingly legendary natural beauty of the province before Paul’s lens zooms ever closer in for a look at the realities on the ground.
“There pollution is rampant; those who are not lucky enough to find employment in the power industry are forced into dangerous subsistence mining for survival and many residents of towns and informal settlements that abut the power stations are without a proper water or electricity supply and suffer from diseases such as TB.”
Paul is quoted in the article as saying that the connection the indigenous people had to the land is broken. “Now the land is just a place where you put up a house or you dig for something.”
The article continues a bit later with this statement: “When Paul hears US President Donald Trump talking about ‘clean coal’, his experiences in Mpumalanga lead him to react with disdain and outrage because ‘there’s no such thing’.”
The whole article, and its images, was simply stunning. You can read it here, but you must be a subscriber to the paper first.
But better yet, you can see Paul’s own website to see the collection of images called Broken Land here: https://www.daylinpaul.com/broken-land

I had heard from people about the issues with the power industry in South Africa, but didn’t know how severe it was. As one person related to me, “the president has taken a lot of money from the coal power industry. The bribes were there to keep the industry free from too many regulations.” Or as one watchdog group there says, “Public procurement is particularly prone to corruption, and bribery thrives at the central government level.”

I am talking about South Africa, of course. I know nothing like that happens in the States.

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